Kathy's Remodeling Blog

Ask an Expert: How can pregnant homeowner avoid remodeling hazards?

From the Contra Costa Times:

Q I'm pregnant and will be remodeling my home soon. Is there anything I should be aware of (off-gassing, asbestos, glues, etc.) that could hurt my unborn baby or me?

A There are two points during a remodeling project that are critical times at which to consider the impact of potentially hazardous materials.

The first is during demolition, when materials are removed or disturbed, as some of the materials may have been manufactured with known toxins such as asbestos and lead.

The second is during the construction phase, when you should be aware of potentially harmful products used to manufacture building materials that will go in your home.

See the whole story at www.contracostatimes.com

(Photo: Brigham Young University)

Tired of heating and air conditioning your attic space?

The video below shows the hands-on basics of sealing your ducts. I like the part where this HVAC expert uses toilet paper to find leaks in the system. Then, he shows you how to seal them up. This is not just theory or book learning, folks. This is the real thing.

So will you spend a few moments of your time on this? The investment could be great. Getting your ducts sealed sure beats losing your money to needlessly high heating and air conditioning costs. And you know that condensation that forms when air leaks out of the system? That's not a good thing.

 

 Video from Train2Rebuild.

Remodeling with allergies in mind

 Photo: Remodeled house in Southern California. For allergy sufferers, hardwood floor are the way to go.

From the Indianapolis Star:

Question: How can I make sure the materials I use in my remodeling project are safe for a family member with allergies?

Answer: The best place to start is by talking with an allergist. Details on your family member's specific allergies can help determine where to focus your time, energy and money.

Then, find a professional remodeler willing to work with your precise needs. An experienced remodeler will listen to your requirements, help you find solutions and make your home a healthier place to live.

There are many areas to consider -- from the foundation to the fabric on your sofa -- so ask questions and do your homework. Flooring is a key component in allergy control because carpet can be a source of allergens. Hard floor surfaces are a must, especially in bedrooms and closets.

See the whole story www.indystar.com

Ask Kathy: Should we remove the wall between master bedroom and bath?

Dear Kathy:

My wife and I are planning several remodeling projects around the house, among them are the usual bathroom and kitchen projects. My wife would like to have a wall torn down (pending code approval of course).  She also tends to do things without proper foresight, i.e., without thinking of the consequences.  This is a master bath. If we tear down the wall there won't be any privacy from the bedroom. It might be a European style, but, we're in South Florida. For her and I it might not be a problem. But if we ever try to sell the house it might chase away most prospects.

Who's the best contractor/consultant to contact to get ideas, and to discuss our plan? I'm concerned that any paid contractor would agree no matter what we said. As long as they get paid for it then it's in their best interest to affirm whatever plans we discuss.

Best regards, Joe N.

Answer: Excellent question, Joe. Here's the common equation: If you're going to stay in your house longer than five years, do what makes you happy and disregard the future selling points. You've got to consider quality of life now and not give up happiness for some future payoff. However, if you're planning on selling within a few years, you must consider the payback.

In my opinion, asking a real estate agent about future implications is the way to go. Contractors know a lot of things, but selling price of a house is generally not within their scope of expertise. Realtors, on the other hand, live for this sort of thing. They know the neighborhood and preferences of local buyers.

Here's what you do: Ask around and get a reference for a local, quality, honest, ethical, helpful real estate agent. Tell that person you will one day sell your home and are considering some remodeling work. Ask him or her to stop by and give you an opinion. This is an excellent time for that as many real estate agents are struggling for business, and they are more willing to give service in hopes of future business. If that person won't come over, call the next one on your list.

Good luck to you and your wife.  — Kathy

Refinish or replace the bathtub?

Q: My bathtub is a mess, and a friend told me to consider refinishing. I read online that bathtub re-glazing might not be the wisest thing. I've always wanted a clawfoot bathtub, but maybe it's not too practical. To further complicate things, there is a possibility that my mother will come live with me, so perhaps I should be looking at walk-in bathtubs. -- Nancy W., Memphis

A: You have the home improvement disease known as "paralysis by analysis." It's quite common. In fact, just the fear of having to decide among hundreds of choices stops many people from even starting a project.

I would suggest that you think first about the real prospects that your mother will come to stay with you. That is the primary variable. Even if you plan this remodel job around her, you may have all sorts of options and will be able to a get a tub that provides safety as well as good looks

See the whole story at www.washingtonpost.com

Acclaimed kitchen designer now offers phone consultations

Susan Serra, an acclaimed kitchen designer who lives and breathes kitchens, now offers one-hour phone consultations. We can't all be lucky enough to live near a kitchen designer whose work has appeared in many major magazines. But her wisdom and insight is still available: Here's what Susan posted on her blog, The Kitchen Designer:

I've been offering kitchen design consulting services informally and have not devoted a special page on my blog to this service until now. 

I am very pleased to formally introduce the One Hour Phone Consultation!

Call me about...well, anything related to your kitchen design project that is just not sitting right with you and for which you need a first OR a second opinion. 

I am happy to provide this kitchen design consulting service which can be invaluable to those who otherwise are at a loss as to what decision to make, be it in regard to products, design issues, style issues, or so many other issues that come up in the lengthy course of the kitchen remodeling process. 

Read the whole post

Ask an expert: Keeping home, family safe during remodeling

By Michael McCutcheon for the Mercury News

Q: How can I keep my home and family safe during a remodel?

A: That's a great question. Clients usually dwell on price vs. quality, and the remodeling schedule, but rarely do they seriously consider the safety of their family and home during a remodel.

Yet I would argue that this is one of the most important aspects that separate a well-run remodel from the average project.

Recently I was asked to look at a troubled remodel that was still in progress. Among other transgressions, I was shocked to see that the contractors had been leaving the back of the house open every night when they left. This was a house with a single woman and young girl living alone!

via www.mercurynews.com

Dear Kathy: Fix or replace my ruined doors?

Dear Kathy: I am planning a major remodeling in a 12-year-old house we just bought and I’ve been reading your blog articles for the past week. I found them very informative and inspiring. Most importantly, they are very practical and also very fun – a rare combination to find among remodeling articles nowadays! Now I have a big problem with my exterior wood French doors. Eight of them have developed dry rot from the bottom. Some are more serious than the others. When it rains, water came through and stained the carpet. Different contractors have different opinions about this: some think it can be fixed while some told me firmly that my only choice is to replace all of them with vinyl or fiberglass doors. However, I have concerns on both of the options: To replace:

1) They are very expensive due to the size and number of my doors. I’ve been given estimate from $35,000 to $45,000 to replace all of them. 2) Can I make sure that water will not come through again with the new materials? To fix: 

1) How can I make sure the same problem will not happen again? 2) How I can find a licensed people to fix this problem? Should I find a contractor or a handyman will do the job? 3) One contractor told me that it might be even more expensive to fix compared with just buy some new ones. Is it true? Look forward to your reply. Thank you very much. Christine in Diamond Bar

Dear Christine:

Thank for the kind words about my blog. I am not a contractor, architect, consultant, lawyer or anything like that. But I do have one very strong opinion based on my years of home remodeling observation.

And that opinion is this: You have a moisture intrusion problem, not a door problem. Unless you address why the water is coming into your house, no type of door will solve the problem. The problem is usually that there is insufficient slope away from the door opening to the outside. It could be the flashings around the door, designed to create a barrier between the inside and outside, are not in place. Perhaps there should be a sill pan.

(Note: The photo above is from a house with just such a problem. See it here.)

So the problem is not so much whether you fix or replace the doors. The problem is stopping the water intrusion.

I suggest you don't hand this job over to a handyman. I suggest you find an excellent remodeling company to help you. This is a serious problem and needs a top-notch company. Your chosen company should licensed and insured, of course, but it should also be respected, award-winning and a member of a local remodeling or building association.

You may well run into this comment: "We don't do small jobs." That's fine. Just keep developing a list of excellent companies and calling them until one is receptive.

Any other advice for Christine?

Ask an Expert: Repair or replace damaged deck?

Question: My house was built 20 years ago with a second-story redwood deck that is about 250 square feet. The deck has been stained, power-washed and decently maintained. But some of the deck joists and all four uprights have been diagnosed with dry rot/fungus and dry-wood termites. Should I replace the damaged joists and uprights or rip the thing down and start over? The deck faces south and west with views and is in full sun most of the day. I do not want to spend a lot of money if I can avoid it as I am semi-retired. The home is valued at about $1 million.

Answer: From Joe Wood of WoodsShop Creative Builders in San Diego, Calif.:

With an aged deck, you can sometimes retain the existing structure if it is sound, and it certainly makes sense to do so considering the higher cost of rebuilding. New decks can cost $50 to $75 per square foot or more.

If the rotted areas are only on the tops of the joists (the horizontal beams onto which the deck's boards are fastened) and aren't too bad, the damaged areas can be sealed with Termin-8 (a copper-based preservative) and then covered with joist flashing to prevent more water infiltration. One such product is Grace Vycor Deck Protector.

While you're under the deck, you should also check the condition of any fittings and fasteners for corrosion.

When you replace the posts, use pressure-treated stock, and make sure you install them with an uncut, factory-sealed end down into the ground; don't use a freshly cut end.

However, with all four posts and some of the joists showing signs of decay, there's a very good chance the remainder of the joists will soon follow. Maybe it's time to replace the deck with another that's safe.

See more Q&A

Q&A: How to paint a brick fireplace?

Question: I have hated my brick fireplace since day one of living in my otherwise-fabulous home. I have considered removing the brick altogether and creating a brand-new one by placing stucco over it with a mantle, or painting the brick white and adding a rich, dark wooden mantle on top. Actually, a Williams-Sonoma home store was my inspiration; it has the same painted white fireplace. It seems to be the most cost-effective. Do you recommend painting a brick fireplace white? How would you do this? What kind of paint? Some say oil, other say latex. Just curious to hear your thoughts. — Brianna

Answer: Brianna, I also like the look of a painted-brick fireplace. In fact, I wish I had brick on my fireplace instead of my big faux lava rocks that aren't so easily transformed with paint or plaster.

I asked the advice of Dan Gallagher of Gallagher's Decorative Painting & Design in Sierra Madre. Dan's a decorative and home painter who has been featured in this blog here, here and here, and in the newspaper's Home section. Check that out here.

Dan says:

All your ideas are good and doable. If a painted look is the course of action (either decorative or straight paint), the most important thing is that oil-base primer should be used, at least two coats. It's best that the oil-base primer is a long-drying for maximum strength. Your usage of the fireplace should help to determine the type of paint -- oil-base or water-base -- for the finish. If the fireplace is used a lot, go with an oil-base paint. For low usage, like two or three times a year, go with water-base paint. Mark the can and store it for touch-ups in the future. Remember, removing paint from brick and mortar can be done, but it is extremely expensive.

If you were to go with a stucco or masonry-type finish, you might consider adding a relief design. It will add interest and personalize it to your home and decor.

For more insights, Dan can be reached at his website.

Also, Brianna, check out this absolutely gorgeous transformation of a brick fireplace in Manhattan Beach.

See more Q&A

(Photo: Sunset)

Ask the Resident Builder: Can my neighbor prevent me from building a playhouse?

Question: I was recently building a children's playhouse and began to put the walls up. As I did, the neighbor who lives behind me came over and said that we were blocking her view. The view she has is of the back of our house. The playhouse would be approximately 8 to 9 inches above her 9-foot fence. She said she was going to find out if she could stop us from building it. Is this possible from a legal standpoint? Thanks, Marcus

Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:

It depends on what exactly is being constructed. Is it built to function like a treehouse or a kid's playhouse? Or is it built as a permanent structure that could be used as a spare bedroom or office?

If the former, this is not a building-and-safety, planning or zoning issue and the city is likely to stay out of it. If it's the latter, however, plans and permits would be needed as well as inspections, and if these were not secured, the neighbor might have unwelcome leverage.

The noted 9-foot fence, by the way, might be counter-leverage that works to your advantage, as it too might not be legal. The typical maximum fence height allowed is 6 feet.

To read for yourself what the City of Los Angeles building code says about accessory buildings, pergolas, retaining walls, excavation in cemeteries and more, click here.

Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth.

(Photo: Playhouses.com)

See more Q&A

Q&A: Which grasses were in that award-winning landscape?

At the urging of reader "tarbubble," I asked the designers at Pamela Burton & Company what lawn substitutes they used on their award-winning Malibu landscape (which was featured previously on this blog).

I got a response from Burton associate Stephen Billings. First of all, regarding grasses in lieu of lawn, he recommends referring to the Sunset Western Garden Book for a list of alternatives to turf for lawns.

As for this particular landscape, three of the ornamental grasses we used are:

• Muhlenbergia capillaris
• Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light'
• Nassella tenuissima

And here's more info I dug up:

Muhlenbergia capillaris (left): As summer is winding down and with it your blooming annuals and perennials, Muhlenbergia capillaris (Pink Muhly Grass) is springing up — giant puffballs of cotton-candy pink, so airy you expect a breeze to carry them away. A source of late-season color, this native grass is effortless to grow and tolerant of just about anything Mother Nature throws its way. The grass forms a nice little hedge, edging, or middle-of-the-border ribbon of color from spring through summer, but when the rosy-pink plumes arise on 4-foot stems, it grabs the garden spotlight. Tolerates heat, humidity, poor soil, and even drought. See a white version called White Cloud. (From home Depot)

Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' (right): A beautiful grass whose white margins on its very narrow leaves give it a creamy-pale green from a distance. Blooms late and doesn't tend to self-sow, although it may do so moderately in moist areas. Grows to 6 feet tall. (From Home and Garden TV)

Nassella tenuissima (left): Also called Mexican feather grass, it is soft and shiny in the spring garden. Nassella tenuissima should be trimmed severely in the later part of the summer as the seed heads start to dry. Once matured the seed is very fruitful and can become something of a pest. The florets are very prone to sticking in socks or the fur of your pets. This is not recommended for gardens near wild areas as the Mexican feather grass can easily escape. Sometimes sold as Stipa tenuissima. (From California Gardens.com)

(Photos: Muhlenbergia capillaris: Home Depot; Miscanthus sinesis: HGTV; Nassella tenuissima: California Gardens)

Desperately seeking electrician

A fellow reader sent in this query. Do you have any suggestions?

"I live in Eagle Rock, Calif., and I am looking to replace our knob-and-tube wiring. I have had a number of bids. Some who bid didn't seem trustworthy. With others, I thought: "WOW! Really? That much?"

"I have yet to find anyone who seems trustworthy and affordable. If you know of anyone or any good source to go to, please let me know. It would be greatly appreciated."

Thanks, Paxon

(Photo: Wikipedia)

Ask the Resident Builder: Is it time for an electric water heater?

Question: I need a new water heater, and because my home's gas bill is so high, it occurred to me that it might be a good idea to get an electric water heater. My husband is not in favor of an on-demand water heater, so I've got to decide between gas or electric with a storage tank. Would putting in an electric water heater be a good move? And what is involved?

Answer: From Pardon Our Dust's "resident builder" Alon Toker:

Going the electric route would be more costly, both in initial costs (you would need to run a dedicated 220V line for it) and in the long run (gas, as expensive as it is, is still a cheaper energy source compared with electricity).

A 220V line, which is needed to power such an electricity-gobbling appliance, could add $500 to $2,500 to the cost of a water heater, depending on several variables: the type of wiring mandated (Romex or conduit) and whether an upgrade to the electrical panel might be needed.

A better idea is to install a high-efficiency gas water heater. But the best choice of all is a tankless gas water heater.

Though more expensive initially, the tankless model would save energy as compared with the tank unit. At my company, we have installed virtually nothing but tankless water heaters for some years with great feedback from clients. These units are more complicated and finicky than tank models, and a water softener should really be considered. But in my opinion, tankless heaters are the way to go.

Alon Toker is president of Mega Builders in Chatsworth.

(Photo: Factricity; illustration: Kathy Price-Robinson)

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Ask a finish carpenter: What kind of molding for a cove ceiling?

Question: My daughter, who lives in Westchester, has a house with coved ceilings and wants to paint the rooms but is wondering if there is a crown molding that breaks up the ceiling and accommodates the rounded ceiling and corners? — Greg

Answer: From Reseda licensed general contractor and author Gary M. Katz:

There isn't a manufactured crown profile that fits a cove ceiling. However, there are still two ways of doing it.

First, you could install a crown molding with a small shelf above. I've done this before and have seen the detail in historic homes,too, though I'm not always thrilled with the design. The shelf doesn't really hold much, because of the coved ceiling, so it becomes a dust shelf.

Another choice is to cut a new top "shoulder" on a standard crown molding, so that the crown will fit against the ceiling, but often the cove is too large a radius and a small shelf is still needed.

Probably the best alternative is to skip the crown and install a picture rail molding. Picture rail is the architecturally authentic way to terminate a cove ceiling; it provides a termination line for the ceiling color.

You can mount the picture rail at the beginning of the cove or even a few inches lower.

Gary M. Katz is the author of many carpentry books and DVDs. His newest DVD, with Jed Dixon, is on wainscoting and paneling and is the sixth in a series called "Mastering Finish Carpentry."

(Photos: From top: HGTV, HGTV, Kathy Price-Robinson)

Q&A: If a neighbor's dead tree falls on my roof, who pays?

From Barry Stone's "Ask the Inspector" column in the Real Estate section:

Question: The neighbors who live behind us have three large, dead trees that border our fence. A few years ago, our insurance company informed us that they would no longer insure our roof because it has wood shingles. If our neighbors' trees should fall on our roof, who would be responsible for the repair costs?

Answer: The exclusion of the roof by your insurance company may only involve fire damage or rain leakage. You should contact them to see if you would be covered for damages caused by a falling tree.

As for your neighbors, their dead trees constitute a significant public-safety hazard. Notify them immediately that you want these trees removed and will hold them legally and financially responsible for any personal injuries or property damage that may be caused by their failure to do so.

If they do not respond, the municipal authorities should be notified. The appropriate agency should then give notice to your neighbors to have the trees removed. If your neighbors still fail to act, the municipality can remove the trees and bill your neighbor for the work.

(Photo: Botanic Gardens Trust)

Help! Invading bamboo!

Question: Could you post an article on the responsible way to plant bamboo? Proper selection and planting could help neighbors retain friendship as well as money. My neighbor's bamboo invaded my landscape, costing us a few thousand dollars and a huge headache. Thank you, Riley E.

P.S. Thanks about the previous post on horsetail. I just had my $5 initial investment removed for $300!

Answer: From landscape designer and TV outdoor living expert Pamela Berstler, co-owner of Flower to the People in Los Angeles:

You have two main choices when selecting bamboo for a landscape: clumping bamboo or running bamboo. In general, the clumping types are native to tropical climates, and the running types are native to areas that get cold winters. Clumping bamboos will create ever-widening circles (yes, clumps), and may, over time, require re-introduction of plant material into the middle of the circle.

Running bamboos spread out horizontally, in an almost straight line; hence the name "running."

Clumping bamboos are relatively easy to keep in check. When new shoots appear, they can be removed using a sharp spade or tree saw.

But running bamboos are very difficult to keep in check if not planted right. It is best to install running bamboos with a solid root barrier at least 30 inches deep that defines the area within which the bamboo can "run." The barrier can be 30 millimeter or thicker plastic with UV protection, or poured concrete. Again, it just has to be deep beneath the grade, and we recommend bringing it above the grade at least 4 inches. Some of the more aggressive running bamboos can "jump" the barrier, so stay on the lookout for escapees.

One way to keep all types of bamboo in check is to reduce the irrigation provided them. Bamboo should be watered infrequently and deeply. Since bamboo is a grass, it will store a lot of water in its stalk; reducing the supplemental water will slow down the growth rate. If you border a bamboo area with completely compacted, dry soil, and you follow the reduced irrigation method, even running bamboos may be held in check. But, and this gets directly to the question posed here, they may run to a neighbor's yard, if there's a lot of irrigation going on within 15 feet to 20 feet of the bamboo planter area.

More instructions for controlling and removing running bamboo are available from George Shor of the Southern California Chapter of the American Bamboo Society.

Designing a kitchen for different-height cooks

[UPDATE: After this post ran, which mentions Iris Harrell's Bay Area/Silicon Valley remodeling firm, I got a progress report from Iris. Since the time I heard her speak, she has grown Harrell Remodeling to 47 employees (well, they're more like owners, as this is an ESOP company, or one with an employee stock ownership plan), and so now there is much less of a waiting period to get a job done. If you live in that area, this should be very good news. End of update.]

I spotted an ask-an-expert piece in the San Jose Mercury News and it caught my eye because the expert is Iris Harrell, a super-well-respected contractor in the Bay Area.

Iris used to be a schoolteacher, and then became a contractor. Her company employs lots of women, and I've heard her say that if she senses a potential client will be disrespectful to her employees, she won't take the job. And because her work is of such high quality and her ethics so stellar, there's typically a long waiting list to get a job done by Harrell Remodeling.

So, anyway, this piece is about designing a kitchen for cooks of differing heights. In this case, the husband is way tall and the wife not so much.

Here are some tips:

Design an island with two heights: 30 inches for the cooktop and some counter space, and 36 inches (the typical height of a counter) for part of the island. The lower portion could contain a salad sink.

Avoid a big range hood where the taller person might hit his head, and go for a downdraft-style ventilation system (pictured).

Build a floor-to-ceiling cabinet, rather than an upper and lower with counter space between, so important items (like plates and cups) don't end up in the upper cabinets where the shorter person will have a hard time reaching.

Read the whole story

Plus, you might want to consider hiring an actual kitchen designer. The fee you spend on this will be long forgotten while the functionality of your kitchen will be with you daily. Certified kitchen designer Susan Serra suggests 10 Questions to Ask Before Hiring a Kitchen Designer.

Ask a NARI Contractor: Mother in a panic over lead-tainted dust

Jennifer, a mother of three young kids (who is NOT pictured here), is understandably "freaking out" about the possibility of lead-tained dust in her home. For advice, I turned to members of the newly form L.A. chapter of the National Assn. of the Remodeling Industry. Three contractors responded. Read the question and their answers below:

Question: I have three children under 4 years old, and I am having my living room painted in our 1940 house. The windowsills needed sanding. When I asked about the potential for lead paint, the contractor (who came highly recommended from several sources and is expensive) told me that it was only surface sanding (I painted with latex paint several years ago) and that he would make sure all the dust was cleaned up. Well, there was a lot more sanding and dust than I expected, and now I am freaking out that I took his word on the whole lead issue. What can I do now? Do I test whatever dust I can find? Is there some expert I can hire to have my house evaluated for lead exposure? Any help you can give me would be appreciated.

Answer: From Samantha Thompson, vice president of design, Custom Design & Construction, Los Angeles:

Thanks for your questions, and I can understand why you are concerned. For starters, federal law requires that contractors who are disturbing more than 2 square feet of painted surfaces give you a pamphlet called “Protect Your Family From Lead in your Home” before any work begins. The homeowner should sign a document saying they received the pamphlet, which the contractor should keep on file. Licensed contractors should employ only qualified workers and follow strict safety guidelines set by their state or federal government.

All homes built before 1978 have paint that contains high levels of lead. The lead from paint, chips and dust can pose health hazards, especially to children under the age of 6, if it is not taken care of properly.

The best thing to do now is have your home tested for lead-based paint. The removal of lead-based paint should only be done by trained, certified professionals who have experience working with hazardous materials. You can call the National Lead Information Center at 800-424-LEAD to find a lead abatement firm in your area. You can also find more information on its website, www.epa.gov/lead.

A more immediate step you can take is to clean up paint chips immediately and to clean all floors, window frames, windowsills and surfaces with warm water and an all-purpose cleaner. If you are still feeling uncomfortable about your children being exposed, you should consult your doctor. A simple blood test will detect of there are high levels if lead. Your doctor can then determine if more testing is needed.

More info from this company: (310) 815-4815

Q&A: How to block view of trashy house across the street?

Question: I need some ideas to help block the view across the street from us.

When we bought our house 15 years ago the view across the street was of tall, beautiful flowering shrubs. We never saw the house behind the shrubs, which were about 15 feet high and 40 feet wide.

Recently, the owner decided to turn the house into a rental and cut down the shrubs. Now we see what was behind there: a really ugly, trashy house with sheets on the windows, overgrown lawn, etc. All the others houses on the street really nicely kept up.

We tried to buy it, but he won't sell. Any ideas on blocking the view? If we plant something it will have to be really tall as our house sits up about two feet and I'm afraid it will look strange as no one else has front yard hedges. Plus, we only have about 15 feet from the porch to right of way.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Answer: Here's one idea, based on a fence (pictured above) I saw just yesterday on my walk. It's got panels staggered so that it blocks the view from the front, but allows views from the side. What if you did something like this with panels of trellis and vines?

This also brings to mind Stefan Hammerschmidt's house in Venice. He did a great remodel on his vintage cottage, preserving the house while adding a second floor. And then he found out the house across the street was in danger of being torn down and replaced by a McMansion. So, he bought that house and turned it into a rental.

Of course, buying the house across the street is a radical solution. But perhaps you could make that offer a few more times to the owner calmly and persistently, and maybe eventually he will give in.

Any other solutions for Kay?

Recap: Answers to vexing home questions

How green is bamboo flooring?
How do we install patio columns?
How much to upgrade 1950s home?
Renovate all at once or in steps?
Where to find locally quarried stone?
How to get the look of a vine-covered house?
Do I really need a bathroom fan?
Is 24-inch framing better than 16-inch framing?
Should bathroom light point up or down?
Are asbestos ceilings dangerous?
How small is the smallest legal powder room?
What is a remedy for our leaky flat roof?
Should we repair or replace our damaged deck?
Is entire property reassessed for taxes after an addition?
Does laundry room or larger kitchen bring greater value?
What decking material is best?
What's the book on best construction practices?
Why is my tankless water heater so noisy?

Ask a Landscape Designer: Gravel good in the garden?

Question: Could you find a landscaper to comment on pros/cons of pea gravel in a residential setting? I'm entranced with the look, and permeable hardscape is important to me.

However, when I research on the Internet, I find most postings by homeowners are negative: It does not stay put if there are children or dogs in the household, neighborhood cats use it as litterbox, ants build mega cities in it, it's not a realistic choice if children run barefoot in the yard, a wheelbarrow pushed down the path creates ruts and sends pebbles into the flower beds.

I've also read that 2 inches is not sufficient and that 6 inches is needed and that the gravel should be mixed with aggregate to stabilize it better.

Answer: From Pamela Berstler, landscape designer of Flower to the People in Los Angeles:

We LOVE gravel as a mulch in the garden, and most people in the Mediterranean would agree with that assessment. It reflects heat, but protects roots, and it maintains moisture, reducing the need for irrigation, and does not decompose and require replacement.

The wide variety of local colored stone can really enhance a natural landscape installation, but we try to stay away from exotic or excessively processed material, as it is not a sustainable solution.

Gravel mulch and pathways require different treatments. In the garden beds, as mulch, 2 inches is pretty much the maximum required (not 6 inches). You actually want to use less rather than more, as the deeper the gravel application, the more difficult to keep it away from the base of plants, keep ruts out and keep it from spilling everywhere. When the application is thin and slightly compacted, it works beautifully. And of course, we recommend NO weed barrier beneath.

The optimal type of gravel will vary for pathways and planting beds. Gravel in the planting beds can be rounder, and perhaps even smaller — as small as 3/8-inch diameter, and as round as a beach pebble. Our favorite simple gravel for mulch in planter beds is 3/8-inch to 1-inch Del Rio pebble, but pretty much anything will work.

For pathways, there are more basic rules. First, gravel pathways are best installed over a stabilized base — stabilized compacted soil, decomposed granite or a plastic grid like a grasspave work the best, and only about 3/4-inch to 1-inch depth is required. Second, gravel pathways must be contained with a barrier that rises 1 inch above grade at a minimum. We like stone edging (classy and very Mediterranean), but bender board, aluminum or steel edging would work too. Third, and perhaps most important, the type of gravel needs to be the sharper-edged gravel, not the rounded beach stone. The sharper gravel will grab on to its neighbor and become firmer and easier to walk on than the rounded stones.

E-mail Pamela

(Photo: Flower to the People)

A good question on solar blinds

Here's a question from reader Dan in Canada:

I am seeking information on solar blinds. I am up in Canada but have south facing windows in our home which cause tremendous heat in the summer, even with our Energy Star-rated windows.

I have seen manufacturers of so-called "solar blinds" talk to their value without disrupting the view from the inside and wanted to know do they actually work, if it is better to have the kind on the inside or outside the window and who produced the best solar blind?

I have seen a few manufacturer websites and think that the ones from EZ Snap seem to have the best possibility costwise (under $3 per square foot), but I just don't know.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

Any advice for him? Please comment below.

Q&A: How to create a remodeling plan?

Here's a question from reader Molly K.:

"I have multiple remodel jobs to do on my 1950 bungalow and a very limited budget.

"What kind of professional should I hire to help me make a design and budget plan given current costs and the need to consider costs in choosing various elements to use?"

My take:

I love the idea of creating a design and budget plan, rather than simply tackling one disparate project after another. Instead, you could get a plan in place and then fulfill it as funds become available.

You can get some free or reasonably priced help from the design desks at Home Depot, Lowe's and Ikea, among others. (Read about a guy who did just that.) Sometimes you have pay a couple hundred dollars for the services, sometimes it's free when you buy the cabinets from the store. (Read comments on Home Depot/Lowe's design services on Garden Web.)

But here's a crazy idea: How about hiring a remodeling contractor to help you create a plan? After all, these are the people who know about budgets, whereas a pure designer type might not be familiar with the costs of various construction options.

A couple of years ago, you might have encountered remodeling companies too swamped with work to perform this kind of service, but the days of homeowners refinancing to pull $100,000 from equity for big remodels are gone. Remodeling contractors are now freed up, and looking for work.

I suggest finding a design/build firm, which is a contractor with designers on staff, or a contractor who has good design sense. You should expect to spend around $75 to $125 an hour for these brainstorming and planning services. And be sure to let the contractor know what you're up to. Getting someone in your house to toss ideas around, all the while knowing you will never hire them to do the job, is bad juju.

It might sound counterintuitive to pay for planning services when you're already strapped for money, but having a plan could give you peace of mind now and a better use of money later on.

Your take?

(Photo: Mar Vista homeowner Carl Balton reveals his kitchen remodeling plans.)

Ask a SoCal contractor: What's up with this 'white fuzzy fungus?'

Question: Our stucco house was built in late 2004 and within the last month or so we've notice some white fuzzy fungus developing on the (east-facing) concrete slab of a small exterior alcove that connects the kitchen to the garage.

I tried scrubbing it with a warm water and bleach solution and it went away briefly, but now it's reappearing at a faster rate and spreading. What is an eco-safe but effective fungicide to use? — Debbie

Answer: From licensed general contractor Alon Toker of Mega Builders in Chatsworth:

The "white fuzzy fungus" described might not be a fungus at all. Rather, it might be efflorescence (salt left behind when water evaporates). I would suggest that you contact a competent concrete finisher to take a look and address the issue. If it turns out that indeed you are dealing with a fungus, I would  recommend contacting an hygienist to test and identify the fungus and prescribe a treatment.

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(Photo: Image of efflorescence from Wikipedia)

Q&A: Where to find locally quarried stone?

If you're going green, you know that transportation of your green goods must be factored in. Even if a product is made of recycled materials, for instance, when you have to ship it halfway around the world, that creates a lot of greenhouse gases and negates your green efforts.

All this is especially so with stone products, which are, you know, as heavy as rocks.

So when I came across a well-thought-out Q&A on finding locally quarried stone, I wanted to share it with you. The question is answered by Tracy A. Stone, who opened her architectural practice in Los Angeles in 1991. She is a member of the U.S. Green Building Council and a LEED Accredited Professional, and has a working knowledge of sustainable strategies, technologies and materials.

This Q&A comes from the GreenHomeGuide:

Question: I am remodeling my bathroom with an eye on eco-friendly. I hate the idea of shipping granite around the world, but I'd like to use some type of stone on the floor and in the shower. Is there any locally quarried stone in the Southern California area? — Caroline Kaplan, Mission Viejo, CA

Answer: Natural stone has an appealing color, texture, and mass that make it pleasing to interact with in an interior environment. However, if it is not quarried locally, it does take an enormous amount of energy to transport.

Much of the stone that we find on the market in Southern California comes from as far away as China. Slate is domestic, but it comes from Maine, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Vermont. Historically, Northern California had a number of granite quarries, but most of them are no longer active. Two that remain active are Cold Spring's Academy Black and Sierra White quarries in Raymond, California. I welcome comments from green professionals who know of other quarries in the region with sustainable environmental practices. Meanwhile, I encourage you to consider a few of the locally available green alternatives to stone:

Q&A: How to get the look of a vine-covered house?

This is my own dilemma:

Question: I love the look of vine-covered houses, which look to me like storybook houses. But my husband hates it. We do have invasive ivy growing on our house, and it's awful. It pushes its way under the roof rafters and into the house. And it gets full of dust and bugs.

But I wonder if there might me another way for me to get the look I like. Is there another vine you could recommend or something else I'm not thinking of?

For inspiration, I turned to Pamela Berstler, an outdoor living expert who appears often on TV home shows, and co-owner of Flower to the People in Los Angeles:

Answer: The type of vine is only one element to consider when covering house walls with greenery. Another, perhaps even more important consideration, is how the greenery attaches itself to the wall, if at all.

Any vigorous grower that is suitable for covering a large vertical space like a wall or fence will have some unsavory characteristics like wanting to push through stucco cracks or under roof tiles, or around window trim; this behavior is not limited to the non-native invasive species that we would NOT want to use anyway like English and Algerian ivy or creeping fig. Even beautiful climbers like purple or red trumpet vine, passionflower, chocolate vine or hardenbergia can be inconsiderate guests if allowed to attach themselves directly to the wall of the house.

We use different attachment methods, depending upon the vine and the type of wall (stucco, brick, wood or cementitious siding, metal). In almost all cases, we want the vine to APPEAR to climb up the wall without actually touching it.

Ask Matt: Do I really need a bathroom fan?

Question: Am I required to install a ventilation fan in my bathroom? My husband and I are concerned with what might be involved. Can you make any recommendations? — Barbara

Answer: An exhaust fan in a bathroom is not a requirement according to building codes if you have the proper ventilation through what we call a "passive" system, which is basically a window or operable skylight. However, if you have no window, codes require you to have a mechanical method of removing moisture from the air, and that means an exhaust fan.

But even if you have a window, you should realize that the differential in pressure needed to move moisture out of the room, or a cross breeze, will create ventilation only if such conditions exists. The exhaust fan, on the other hand, will actively remove moisture and odors from the bathroom much faster than an open window in most cases.

Replacing an existing fan is fairly simple because there is prior ducting already in place. And I do recommend this. Older fans tend to be noisy, and when fans are noisy, people don't turn them on. And a fan that's not turned on is no better than no fan at all. You can also buy humidity-sensing fans that will turn on themselves when needed, helping to fight excess moisture and mold.

If you don't already have an existing fan, your approach will really depend on the amount of room you have in your attic. If you have adequate room, you can duct through the attic and outside of the house through a side wall. There have been significant improvements in these fans over the years, and Nutone and Panasonic make some great models that are strong and quiet. The newer fans not only work better, they are also energy-efficient. The high-quality fans run $250 to $360 and are fairly simple to install. Panasonic has a helpful page of frequently asked questions on ventilation and fans.

Matt Plaskoff, a veteran Los Angeles contractor (license No. 660059), is CEO and founder of Plaskoff Construction and One Week Bath. He is a frequent expert on home improvement TV shows and former lead construction consultant of ABC's "Extreme Makeover: Home Edition."

Got a question for Matt? Click here to send an email.
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Ask Matt: 'Popcorn' on ceiling is gone; now what?

Question: We recently removed "popcorn" textured ceilings in the house we're remodeling. Now we need to do something with the bare ceilings, starting with the vaulted ceiling in the living room. One contractor says we can just paint over the ceiling (it's been sanded since the popcorn was removed). Another says we need to plaster first or use textured paint. Who's right? Plastering looks like it will add several hundred dollars to the budget, which we'd like to save for future projects. But we don't want to paint it just to find we need to plaster and repaint. Thanks for the help. — Stephanie B.

Answer: The question is: How smooth is the ceiling? Did the removal company leave it in a "paint-ready" condition? If it is smooth and there are no divots or check marks in it from the scraping tools, I would recommend a very good primer and just go ahead and paint. The purpose of a plaster skim coat is simply to smooth out the surface and remove any imperfections. Hope that helps, and good luck with your efforts!

Matt Plaskoff, a veteran Los Angeles contractor (license No. 660059), is CEO and founder of Plaskoff Construction and One Week Bath. He is a frequent expert on home improvement TV shows and former lead construction consultant of ABC's "Extreme Makeover: Home Edition."

Got a question for Matt? Click here to send an email.

Ask an Architect: Can I pick your brain for ideas?

Question: I'd love to hire an architect to give me some ideas for my remodel. I'm not sure I want to hire the architect to oversee the whole project, or even draw up any specific plans. I just want the benefit of an architect's creative ability to come up with visions for what my house could become. Do architects do these type of "visioning" or brainstorming assignments, and how much would I expect to pay for this?

Answer: From Robert Nebolon, whose south Hermosa Beach project will be featured this Sunday in the Real Estate section of the newspaper:

I can't speak for all architects, but yes, architects will visit your house and brainstorm along with you. And it's best done with a glass of wine for all involved!!

An architect can charge on an hourly basis, or a flat-fee basis. An hourly basis would be good if the owner wants the architect's input over time. A flat-fee basis could be done for a one-time visit for about an hour to 90 minutes. I would think that such a visit would cost somewhere between $250 and $500, depending how busy the architect is.

To give you some idea, my flat fee is $250. Then, if the owner decides to use my services and we sign an agreement, I credit that fee back on the first invoice.

Here's what typically occurs during an initial visit:

1. An architect can typically see possibilities that an owner or layperson may not be able to see, and he or she will share those ideas.

2. Many owners have ideas that don't meet the planning code, but they aren't aware of that. A good example of this is when owners want their addition to encroach into a setback. The planning code can be quite Byzantine in some cities, and it's hard for a homeowner to keep track of all the rules.

3. The same thing can be said for lack of knowledge about the building code. A good example is when an owner may want a bedroom without a window, which is against the building code.

4. The architect can also inform the owner of the cost feasibility of the project.

At the very least, if you can get some good solid advice from an architect as early as possible, you can be pointed in the right direction so that you won't waste time, energy and/or money pursuing ideas that won't work.

(Photos: Robert Nebolon created a computerized mock-up of the roof of this Manhattan Beach home to show the homeowners, the neighbors and the city how it would look after a remodel.)